After visiting the Christmas markets in Budapest and Bratislava, it was time to head back to Munich, Germany to catch our flight back to Mumbai, India. However, I wasn’t done yet with Christmas market hopping 🙂 I wanted to see one more city before concluding our European winter trip
I literally opened Google maps and tried to see where we could spend our final night. Czech Republic, being close both Bratsilava and Munich seemed like a good option. I bet Prague is wonderful during holidays, but I was looking for a smaller and more laid town to end our trip in. Also, we have visited Prague a few years ago in summer so were looking for a new destination and that’s how Cesky Krumlov was included in our itinerary.
Cesky Krumlov, loosely translates to “crooked river” or “crooked peninsula.” It is located in the South Bohemian region of Czech Republic. This city, with its cobblestone streets and historic architecture, became one of the first sites in Czech Republic to be registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The reason why the old city is so well preserved? It completely escaped the bombings in World War 2!
Every street here is practically a postcard! With its cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, baroque theatre, castle and a beautiful river, it truly looks like a fairtytale and a must visit if you are in the nearby area.
Cesky Krumlov is easily doable from Bratislava, Vienna and of course, Prague.
While we visited this city during the holiday season, we also explored beyond its markets. This town felt way more relaxed and charming with a local, authentic feel. Of course there were tourists, but the markets didn’t seem overrun with tourists like they do in other cities.
Over the years, we have visited a few more cities during the holiday season. For detailed guides on other Christmas markets, please click on the respective links:
I also visited Bratislava, and smaller Austrian towns in November 2025. A detailed itinerary on other towns will be up on the blog shortly.
Best Way to Reach
Cesky Kumlov is just a 2.5 hour train ride away from Prague. Here is the driving distance from other nearby cities:
- Linz, Austria – 75 minutes
- Vienna, Austria – 3 hours
- Munich, Germany – 3.5 hours
- Bratislava, Slovakia – 4 hours
- Budapest, Hungary – 5.5 hours
While car is the easiest if you are coming from cities other than Prague, you can even look into buses. FlixBus and RegioJet are popular bus operators here. They are comfortable and convenient.
If you are driving into the city, then note that most of the old town is pedestrian only. Hence, you will need to par your car in designated lots on the outskirts like P1 (Jelenka), P2 (Post Office), P3 (Municipal Park), and P4 (Castle Garden). P1 is the most convenient since it is just 3-4 minute walk into the old town. Click here for more information and pricing guide.
Also, if you are planning to drive into Cesky Krumlov, then note that Czech vignette is mandatory for all vehicles traveling on certain motorways in the country. You can purchase an e-vignette online here. The e-vignette is electronically linked to your vehicle’s license plate number, and unlike the physical sticker does not need to be affixed to your windshield. This system allows you to purchase your vignette online from anywhere in the world and begin using Czech toll motorways immediately upon confirmation of registration.
How many days required?
The city is small and easily doable in a day and hence, most people visit on a daytrip. However, since it is a popular day trip, it can get very busy specially during summers. If you stay overnight, you get to explore the city peacefully. Also, when the lights come on in the evenings, it adds a magical touch specially during the holiday season.
Where to Stay
We stayed at Hotel Oldinn right in the middle of the main square. The room was spacious and our window literally overlooked Svornosti square. It was just magical! Also, from P1 parking lot, it was barely a 7-minute walk.
One biggest piece of advice I would give is that if you are staying overnight, pack your essentials in a small bag instead of dragging huge suitcases on the cobblestone streets. You can leave your suitcases in the car or at Prague/ Vienna luggage store rooms (depending on which city you are coming from).
Things to Do/ Places to Visit
Visit the Christmas Market on Svornosti Square
While you will see small stalls spread out in the city, the main Christmas market is held on Svornosti Square. Here, you will find traditional wooden stalls with crafts, punch, and local specialties such as langos, dumplings sausages, lokše, trdelník, gingerbread cookies. You will also find ceramics, candles, wooden ornaments, etc. Sip on mulled wine and punch while browsing through markets.
There is also a cute wooden merry-go-round.
You will also find a live Nativity Scene and Wooden Nativity Scene on the Square. There are even performances by local artists on some evenings.
We grabbed delicious potato dumplings and a nutella filled Trdelník (chimney cake) from the market. One of the best chimney cakes we have had on this trip!!
While the official currency is CZK, the markets accept Euros. However, keep some CZK handy since you will need them for drinks. You will find a few exchange shops around this square.
Svornosti Square is surrounded by colorful Renaissance houses, many of them dating back to the 14th century. This square also features an ornate fountain with the plague column at its center, surrounded by these pastel-colored homes. This square looks even more beautiful once the lights are turned on.
Right off Svornosti Square, there is a “Christmas Street” which is a beautifully decorated street. Here, you can even take photos with Santa 😍There are a few windows which sell food and drinks, or you can simply walk under the magical canopy of lights.
However, the street is quite narrow and crowded since everyone is rushing to take their insta-worthy photos. But despite that I must have walked on this beautiful street at least 3-4 times with a huge smile on my face 😍
I understand that this street was new for 2025 so not sure if it will be replicated in coming years.
Latran District
It is a charming neighborhood where the castle’s servants once lived. Today, these streets lined with colorful, centuries-old houses, quaint shops, cozy cafes, and traditional restaurants. This neighborhood is built on the side of a hill right next to the castle.
We loved wandering the streets here and popping into the stores! Don’t they look so inviting😍
Visit the Castle
First built in 1253, the castle underwent several additions and renovations over the centuries by the various dynasties that occupied it. In the early 1300s, the castle came under the Rosenberg family’s control (Cesky Krumlov’s most powerful rulers), who lived here for nearly 400 years. They gave it a significant Renaissance makeover.
It is the second most visited castle and the second largest castle and chateau complex in Czech Republic after Prague Castle.
The only downside of visiting Cesky Krumlov in winter months is that the castle interiors are closed in winter ☹ But you can still walk through and explore the main grounds for free as well as enjoy the views from the top. Note that there is a bit of an uphill walk to reach the castle – there are no stairs but it’s a steep slope.
The castle is filled with many photo spots, but one that could be easily missed is the Corridor Connecting Courtyard II And Courtyard III of Český Krumlov Castle. When you walk along the uphill corridor, you will see a small door on your left with a tiny balcony. The view from the balcony is spectacular, and this little nook makes for a nice photo spot. So definitely check it out on your visit.
Wandering around you will come across the infamous bear moat. Yes, it has real-life bears still living in it, but we couldn’t spot any sadly. I guess they were taking their afternoon siesta😉
Cloak Bridge
As you continue walking, you will reach the Cloak Bridge, a three-storied arched bridge which was once a secret passageway for royalty. It has now become one of the most popular viewing points in Cesky Krumlov. Therefore, expect it to be busy any time of the day!
From the corridors of this bridge, you can marvel at the Vltava River, impressive St. Vitus Church, the charming town and its colorful facades flanking the riverside. There are statues on the corridor as well, but since we visited in the afternoon, it was too busy to get that Instagram-worthy shot.
Sadly, it was quite gloomy on the day of our visit 🙁 I bet this view looks even more spectacular under a clear blue day.
This is what the Cloak bridge looks like from outside – you get this view from Lávka pod Zámkem or as you are walking from P1 parking lot into the town.
As you continue walking ahead a little, you get a unique perspective of the town through the crenels/ arches of the fort wall. So definitely stop by for photos 🙂
As you walk a bit ahead from the Cloak Bridge, beyond the fort crenels, you’ll find a small patio that offers the BEST VIEW of Cesky Krumlov. From here, you get a beautiful panorama of the castle, red rooftops, the towering spire of St. Vitus Church and the beautiful Cesky Krumlov Castle Tower, with the Vltava River meandering in between. And it is completely FREE.
Lazebnický Most
This is the next bridge that can be seen from Lávka pod Zámkem. It is a lovey spot with amazing views. Want to savour these views for long? Then pop into Drunken Coffee and enjoy the views.
Climb to the top of Castle Tower
This colorful, Český Krumlov’s Castle Tower is beautiful from all angles and provides 360-degree panoramic view of the town, river, and surrounding countryside. It has around 160 steps but easily doable. Since we visited in late November, we had few daylight hours so tried to maximize our time touring the city and its markets and skipped this climb.
Pop into the side streets
One of the best things about small towns like Cesky Krumlov is that you can ditch the map and venture into any side street that catches your fancy. And if you ae staying overnight, then even better since you will have most of these all to yourself 🙂
Step inside St. Vitus Church
Built in the 15th century, St. Vitus Church is the second-most recognizable building in the village–after the castle, of course! This Gothic masterpiece features impressive, vaulted ceilings, intricate stained-glass windows, and striking frescoes. It’s a must-see for lovers of medieval architecture.
This church is often the venue for musical concerts as well.
Vltava Bridge
Connecting the bustling old town center to the quieter side, Vltava Bridge offers a serene and picturesque photo spot. From here you can have a closer look at St. Vitus church.
There are fewer tourists in this part of town so you can enjoy the views peacefully. You can also \grab a seat at this lovely restaurant and enjoy the views.
As you cross to the other side you will find a lot of Asian restaurants so keep you eye out if you are tired of eating breads and carbs on this trip 😉
Paddle Along the Vltava River
For a unique perspective, hop onto a river cruise along the Vltava River. If you are visiting in warmer months, you can join a traditional wooden raft tour or opt for an active rafting adventure.
Other Viewpoints
While I only had the time to see the views from the castle and Cloak Bridge, there are several other equally impressive viewpoints in this town.
- Seminární Zahrada
- Vyhlídka
- Hotel Ruze – there is a small courtyard next to the hotel which provides a lovely view of the town.
Places to Eat/ Drink
- Drunken Coffee
- Masná 130 House Café
- Latran Restaurant
- Papa’s Living Restaurant