While everyone flocks to Amalfi Coast and Lake Como, Puglia is still one of the underrated regions in Italy. Thanks to social media, this part of Italy is slowly coming up on tourists’ radar.
Puglia is home to some of the most quaint and charming towns. With its small towns, whitewashed streets, vibrant pots of bougainvillea and cacti, beautiful beaches with the bluest water, each town here feels like stepping into a postcard!
The best part is that most of these towns are located within easy driving distance of each other. You can wander around the streets, drink couple Aperol spritz at the piazza, browse the stores, grab a gelato and you are done exploring the town! In most of the towns, there is no set itinerary but just wandering around and soaking up the vibe!
While Alberobello is probably what put Puglia on the map, there is a lot more to see and explore in this region. This guide is here to help you plan that perfect itinerary to Puglia.
For a general overview of our Italy itinerary please click here
Best Way to Get There
If you are arriving in Puglia by plane, you will most likely fly into Bari or Brindisi. And if you are coming by train, then Bari will most likely be your starting point.
While public transportation is available in this region, buses / trains don’t run often during the day. Also, for some towns, you may need to change trains/ buses due to lack of direct connection. So, renting a car is the best way to explore this region. We had rented a car for our 2-week long trip through Avis. If you are renting a car, keep in mind the below parking rules:
- Blue lines: You can park your car here but need to pay at the parking meter
- White lines: Free parking where you’re allowed to park
- Yellow lines: Only locals can park here
In most towns, we lucked out in finding free parking spots. And even where we didn’t find it, parking charges weren’t too high.
Best time to Visit
Puglia is located in southern Italy. With a beautiful coastline, this area has a number of lovely beaches. If your primary agenda is swimming and relaxing, then visit during summer. But summer also means it is extremely hot, streets are swarming with tourists and hotel prices are on the higher end.
Instead, I prefer visiting during shoulder season. Puglia doesn’t experience very cold weather, so shoulder season works out much better. May to early June and from mid-September to October is a great time to visit. There is a slight nip in the air early mornings and late evenings, but weather is perfect during the day. Also, hotel prices are lower and places are a lot less busy.
Looking for a winter getaway? Then guess what, some of these towns are beautifully decorated during the holiday season. So, if you don’t mind walking around the towns in jackets, then go for it.
How Many Days to Spend
It depends on which towns you want to visit in this region and how much driving you want to do. You can spend as little as 4 days and still manage to see most of it. If you want to drive all the way down south to Lecce, Gallipolli and those Maldivian blue beaches, then set aside at least 7-10 days.
Where to Stay
Pick an accommodation depending on the towns you want to visit in this region. If you are in Puglia for 3-4 days, you can set base in one town and make day trips to the other towns. If you are here for longer, split your stay – a few days in north, and then move down south to Lecce / Otranto / Gallipoli.
If swimming is your priority, then choose Bari, Polignano or Monopoli. As you go leave the coast and go to the countryside, there lies a beautiful region called Valle d’Itria. It is dotted with iconic trulli and olive groves and some of the most postcard worthy villages.
We chose to stay at this Airbnb near Cisternino. It worked out perfect for us since it was close to most towns we wanted to visit.
If you are looking for unique accommodation, then check out Masserias. They are farmhouses converted into luxury boutique hotels and farm stays, offering a farm-to-table concept. Staying in masserias is similar to the experience you get in Tuscan agriturismos. You can even stay in a trulli, the unique houses you see in Alberobello.
Since we were here for just 4 days and had an action-packed itinerary, we chose a regular Airbnb vs trulli or masserias.
Places to See / Towns to visit
Here are the towns we visited – listing them from north to south:
- Bari
- Polignano a Mare
- Monopoli
- Alberobello
- Locorotondo
- Cisternino
- Ostuni
- Martina Franca
- Matera
You just need a couple of hours to explore each town and can easily visit 2-3 towns in a day. Pro tip – you will be walking around a fair bit and some of the streets are slippery. So ensure to wear comfortable shoes.
Bari
Bari is the capital city of Puglia region and a charming Italian port city. Its centro storico (historic center) is beautiful, but since a lot of cruise ships dock here, Bari can get very crowded during the day.
Here are the top places to visit in Bari:
- Piazza Mercantile
- Lungomare
- Centro Storico
- Basilica of Saint Nicolas
As you are wandering through the streets of Bari Vecchia, you will find one of Puglia’s most iconic scene – local women making fresh orecchiette (ear-shaped) pasta right on the streets. The street is called Strada delle Orecchiette, where you can not only buy homemade pasta, but also book a meal at a local home.
Interested in some shopping? Check out Via Sparano and Via Argiro, two pedestrianized streets leading from the Old City up to the train station. These are two of Bari’s most famous streets for shopping with many elegant boutiques and designer brands.
Bari also has an amazing café scene. There are numerous cafes dolling out specialty coffee on both these streets. I picked up tiramisu coffee at Caffe Vergnano – it was so unique and delicious !
For traditional snack of Bari-style focaccia, you can’t go wrong with either Panificio Fiore or Panificio Santa Rita. Also, check out Naples famous pizza – L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele. I had my Eat Pray Love moment here 😊Since we were too full, we did a take away and enjoyed it in the comfort of our Airbnb.
As we were wandering around the streets, we stumbled upon Hana, a restaurant which served poke bowls. After eating so much Italian food on this trip, we needed a change so tried out a vegetarian poke bowl. It was so good! So much so that we ended up eating quite a lot of poke bowls rest of this trip 😂
Even though Bari is much larger compared to the other towns, parking can still be tough to find. So as soon as you find an open spot/ parking garage, park right away.
Polignano a Mare
Polignano a Mare is another beautiful town located on the coast of Adriatic Sea.
Once you park your car, make your way to centro storico. Look out for the old gate, Porta Vecchia, through which you can enter the city center. This is where you will find the oldest buildings, the cutest alleys, churches and the most photogenic of streets, sites and vistas. There are also several lookout spots which provide a lovely view of the famous Lama Monachile Beach.
What makes the streets of Polignano a Mare special? As you are walking, you will notice that the streets, walls and doors of centro storico are punctuated with poetry, written by Guido Lupori, a local resident. One of Guido’s most famous works are his ‘poetry steps’ – Vicolo della Poesia – a beautiful stairway. If you can’t find them, ask any local.
After you are done wandering around the streets, spend some time in the main square – Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. It is the perfect place to grab a morning coffee or a late afternoon aperitivo and stretch your legs!
Once you are done strolling around the old town, head to the beach. The famous beach, Lama Monachile Beach, is the postcard image for Polignano a Mare. In fact, if you google Puglia, this beach would probably show up in the images section.
Located between cliffs, this beach attracts many tourists daily. I have seen horrid summer photos from here where not even a single centimeter of space is left at the beach! Thankfully, when we got here in the evening, it was empty! The water wasn’t too cold but I guess most of them were headed to the restaurants after spending all day at the beach 😉
A little fun fact – Red Bull hosts Diving Competition every summer here.
The picturesque beach and the surrounding cliffs make for amazing views. Here are a few viewpoints worth checking out:
- Ponte Borbonico
- Pietra Piatta
- Belvedere su Lama Monachille
Aquamarea is a beautiful restaurant bar overlooking the beach. It is not only a great spot for coffee, drinks, a quick lunch but also a romantic dinner. Sadly, it was completely booked on the day of our visit so had to skip it.
Looking for a fun activity? Then sign up for a boat trip. It is the best way to experience the city from the water and explore the sea caves. You can even go swimming and snorkeling or choose a relaxing sunset cruise. Sadly, we didn’t have the time for this ☹️
You will find several tour operators in the historic center from where you can book. Or you can book them in advance on Getyourguide or Viator.
While there is no shortage of restaurants here, I recommend you head to Via Roma for a meal. This street is completely pedestrianised and flanked on both sides with bars, restaurants and shops. You will spot the famous Italian song, Volare’s lyrics strung across the street and lit up. We were in the mood for pizzas so ended up dining at Spizzicomania. We loved the overall vibe of this street so highly recommend it!
Another popular thing to do in Polignano a Mare is dining at the iconic cave restaurant, Grotta Palazzese. This restaurant offers spectacular views over the sea and is most romantic spot for dining. However, make sure to book this well in advance and be prepared to pay upwards of €195 per person. To be honest though, the reviews of this restaurant are pretty average.
Monopoli
Many people base themselves in Monopoli, another charming town by the sea, on their Puglia trip. It is not as busy as Bari or Polignano and has that perfect laidback vibe you are looking for on a relaxing holiday. Also, the fact that it is steps away from the beach makes it a clear winner 😉
You can explore the historic town centre, walk around the square filled with shops, restaurants and historic buildings. Sadly, it was raining when we got here so the town was dead and streets were deserted.Via San Vito has some of the prettiest corners so be sure to take a stroll here. Other than that, check out the Cathedral, Chiesa di Santa Teresa.
One of the most beautiful spots in the city is Porto Antico, a quaint marina. This place is filled with small fishing boats in classic blue and white. Unlike other historic harbors, this one is still a working fishing harbor.
After you are done exploring the historic center, take a stroll along the lungomare, the paved promenade that runs along the coast. Not only does it provide an alternative vantage point of the city and but also, amazing views.
As you are walking, you will reach the main beach, Cala Porta Vecchia. With the historic centre forming the backdrop, it makes for the perfect swimming spot after a long day of exploring.
As we were getting ready to bid adieu to this town, we spotted this rainbow! Even though we were slightly bummed about the rain, this rainbow brought a huge smile to our faces. A little further down this spot is Porto Bianco, yet another popular swimming spot.
Alberobello
Alberobello is the most famous town in Puglia region. So, no matter the time of the day, it is always packed with tourists! One way to avoid the crowd is by staying overnight – you get mornings and evenings to roam around peacefully, once the day trippers have left.
When you think of Alberobello, what is the first thing that comes to mind? Those whimsical fairytale-like trulli, right?
So, what exactly is a trullo? It is a cone-shaped building (used either as a private dwelling or as a storehouse) constructed out of dry wall. The first trulli appeared around the 14th and 15th century. The reason why they were so small, was so they could be demolished easily when the king’s delegate came to town to collect taxes. They could be easily transformed into piles of stones.
You will spot a lot of trulli dotted across the Itria Valley. But what makes Alberobello special is that here you will find thousands of them! Most of the trulli are now converted into souvenir shops, houses and restaurants. Did you know Alberobello is a UNESCO World Heritage Site?
The main historic center consists of two main districts – Rione Monti and Rione Aia Piccola. And Largo Martellotta is the big square centered between the different districts, which has tons of bars and restaurants.
But before you make your way to Rione Monti, check out Belvedere Santa Lucia. Located near Church of Santa Lucia, this area offers a beautiful panoramic view of the trulli in Rione Monti region.As you make your way to Rione Monti, you will notice that it is the liveliest part of town with lots of shops, cafes, restaurants, and very picturesque streets. There is even a church, Church of Saint Anthony of Padua, which is shaped like a trullo 😊
Take your time wandering through the streets – there are many a photogenic corners here. Even if you don’t fancy shopping, visit one of the shops since it gives you an idea of what these trulli look like from the inside. Don’t forget to stop by Il trullo più piccolo di Alberobello, the smallest trullo of Alberobello. You will also find the famous Instagram spot “Romantic Trulli” here.Here, you will also find a miniature shop where they have replicated the entire town including the layout of streets.
If you see a sign outside of any of the souvenir shops stating “casolare panoramica”, it means that if you purchase something from them (it doesn’t have to be expensive), you can access a viewpoint from the top of their building for free! There are lots of these dotted around the village so keep an eye out.
Rione Monti, while beautiful is also quite touristy and crowded.
If you wish to escape the crowds, head to Rione Aia Piccola region. It is much quieter but still filled with adorable trulli houses. Along your walk, you will also find a lot of lovely courtyards which are ideal for photos 😊
Since it is mostly inhabited by locals, you get to experience a more local vibe. There is also a nice viewpoint here, Villa Comunale Belvedere Parco.
Don’t forget to take a stroll on Via Brigata Regina – the street with hats.
Locorotondo
This town is known for being among a “Borghi più belli d’Italia”, which means one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Having spent a slow morning here, I can totally attest that it is one of the prettiest towns in Puglia.
Just like Alberobello has trullis, Locorotondo is famous for houses with sloping roofs, known locally as “cummerse.”Like most Puglian towns, centro storico is where all the action lies 😉This town is a delightful maze of narrow, winding streets and whitewashed buildings. Keep your camera ready – you are going to be snapping away – every corner here is just adorable.
Also, don’t forget to stop by the main town square, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and check out Chiesa Madre San Giorgio. This church dates back to the 18th century the interior is adorned with frescoes, stuccoes, and marble altars.
Once you are done roaming around the town center, make your way to Punto Panoramico. The terrace here provides panoramic view of the surrounding area – vineyards, olive groves and trulli. While sunset is the best time to visit, this spot is popular all throughout the day. This spot is attached to the Villa Comunale, where you can find several benches to stretch your tired legs.
Cisternino
Cisternino is one of Puglia’s best kept secrets. We spent our last morning in Puglia strolling along the streets of this cute little town. We went with zero expectations but absolutely fell in love with this cute town.
With a laid-back atmosphere, more locals than tourists and a beautiful labyrinth of charming streets, it is the perfect town to slow down and have an authentic experience.
Cisternino’s centro storico is a maze of narrow alleyways that are flanked by whitewashed houses decked in colorful laundry hanging from balconies and flowerpots.
Take your time navigating through the alleys in the historic center – most of them have some messages written in Italian (keep your translate app handy). It is so easy to get lost and I highly encourage you to do just that 😉 The most picturesque spots are often found just wandering around and that is certainly the case with Cisternino.Just like its sister towns it boasts a small, utterly charming old town centre that has remained virtually intact for centuries.
We grabbed a falafel sandwich at Micro, a vegan restaurant located in the northern side of the town. After all the carbs we were eating on this trip, this sandwich was a great change! We also had poke bowl at Mahalo for dinner one of the evenings since we were staying close to this town.
Ostuni
Ostuni is a beautiful town perched on top of a hill overlooking olive groves and the azure Adriatic Sea. It is known as La Città Bianca (The White City), thanks to its whitewashed houses and surrounding city walls.
After Alberobello, Ostuni is yet another popular town on most tourists’ radar. Get here early in the day so you can walk around the town peacefully. It is one of the larger towns in this region, so you can easily spend half a day here.
One of the popular things to do in Ostuni is climbing up the main street, Via Cattedrale and visiting the Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta. This 15th-century cathedral with original foundations dating back to 1000, was destroyed by an earthquake in 1456 and later reconstructed.
Across the cathedral you can find the Arco Scoppa, an arched loggia connecting the Palazzo Vescovile and the Palazzo del Seminario. When you walk through the arch and turn right you will encounter an amazing view on the olive groves and the Adriatic Sea.The best way to spend your day in Ostuni is to just wander around the town navigating the labyrinth of alleys. With beautiful stairways decorated with cacti and flowers, every single alley is just so picturesque! Make sure to leave the main street and take as many side streets as you can! Some of these streets will actually remind you of Greece due to turquoise/ blue accents on the walls.
Ostuni not only has some of the most beautiful streets, but its doors are as adorable! There is one door in particular that has become the icon of Ostuni. This door is painted in the colors of the olive groves and the Adriatic Sea is located right next to a restaurant, Borgo Antico.Across the street you will find another beautiful door with decorative bottles on it.
For coffee and breakfast fix, check out Burro. It has amazing flat whites and a delicious sandwiches. The staircase right next to it is super cute too!As we were wandering around, we picked up traditional Pugliese focaccia from Antico salumeria – it was so delicious that we immediately went back for Round 2. And ended it with a gelato from Cremeria Alla Scala.
The Centro Storico of Ostuni is surrounded by city walls, that have been reconstructed several times over the years. After you are done strolling through the town, walk along the walls soaking in stunning views.
Next to the most popular door of Ostuni, you will find the famous Borgo Antico Bistrot, perfect spot to sip on a drink soaking in the views. It is a popular spot and always busy! They do not take reservations, so try to come early. We got here around 11 am and caught a table at its zigzag staircase. Never too early for an aperol spritz, right😉
Ostuni also has a number of shops where you can buy ceramics, leather goods, pasta, olive oil, pistachio paste, almonds, souvenirs, etc. We ended up buying flavored olive oils, herbs and pistachio cream. Right next to Borgo Antico, there is a shop, Memorabilis Apulia. After you are done browsing thru the shop, head over to the terrace for some epic views. You can thank me later 😉
If you are a sucker for viewpoints, then after you are done strolling around the town, stop by Piazzetta Martiri delle Foibe on Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II. From this spot, you get a fantastic view of the old town of Ostuni.
Martina Franca
Martina Franca is another hidden gem in Puglia. It is not as popular as Locorotondo or Monopoli, but equally delightful. On our last morning in Puglia, as we were driving from our Airbnb to Matera, we stopped by this town since it was literally on the way!
Here are the top places to see in Martina Franca:
- Basilica di San Martino
- Palazzo Ducale
- Centro Storico
- Torre dell’Orologio
- Porta di Santo Stefano
Martina Franca has the most beautiful piazza – Piazza Maria Immacolata. This piazza is framed by semi-circular buildings where you will find several cafes and restaurants. On certain occasions and weekends, this piazza also hosts performances and local parade.
Piazza Roma is yet another square worth checking out in this town.
Matera
Technically, Matera isn’t in Puglia region. But given its proximity to the Pugliese towns, it makes sense to add this historic city to your itinerary.
I’ve been to many places in Italy and I have to say that there is no place like Matera! While most of this city can be seen in half a day, I definitely recommend staying overnight. As the sun sets, the city lights up and trust me, it is just magical !
Did you know Matera is the oldest city in all of Europe? It was once considered the national shame of Italy due to overcrowding and sanitary conditions. It became a UNESCO heritage site in 1993 and slowly, started capturing tourists’ imagination the world over. Matera has also featured in some iconic movies, such as the James Bond movie “No Time to Die” and Mel Gibson’s “The Passion of the Christ”.
The city consists of a new and an old part. The old part is called “i Sassi”, meaning “the Stones” and it is divided in two separate districts – Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso. In the old town, you will find all the rock-cut cave houses, historical landmarks and lots of narrow streets to get lost in!
Matera’s Sassi began as a prehistoric settlement where residents lived in caves that were carved out of the area’s rocky mountains. Over time, these caves became spaces for businesses, shops, bars and more, and today they make up a really unique landscape.
Be ready to walk up steep hills, small alleys and getting lost! Google Maps doesn’t work very well here but because the old town is on two hills, you can always find your way by heading up or down.
Make sure you’re wearing proper shoes because you’ll be walking up and down a LOT of stairs and some of these cobblestones are very slippery.
The churches here are unique since these are carved into stone. Therefore, visiting at least one of Matera’s rock churches is a must.
The three most renowned rock churches in Matera are:
- San Pietro Barisano
- Santa Lucia alle Malve
- Santa Maria de Idris (pictured above)
Apart from the churches, here are the top places to check out in Matera’s historic center:
- San Pietro Caveoso – located right below the Church of Santa Maria de Idris
- Sassi di Matera – walk around the historic old town
- Chiesa rupestre di San Giuliano o Madonna delle Grazie
- Casa Grotta nei Sassi di Matera
- Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant’Eustachio
- Palombaro lungo
- Piazza Vittorio Veneto
In Matera, there are several homes that have now been converted into museums. If you want to get a glimpse into Matera’s history and how its citizens used to live in the caves, you can visit a cave house. There are several such museums spread throughout the Sassi. Check out Casa Grotta Narrante or Casa Grotta nei Sassi di Matera.
After you are done exploring, head to Piazza Vittorio Veneto. It is situated in the newer part of the city and where tourists and locals hang out all day. You will find a lot of bars, restaurants and shopping streets here.
There are a few spots that provide an amazing view of the historic town. Here are some of the viewpoints not to be missed:
- Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli – This one is my favorite ! It is located towards the edge of the Sassi district and offers amazing views of the city. We got here right before sunset and it was lovely to watch the city lights totally transform the view.
- Belvedere Luigi Guerricchio – Located just off Piazza Vittorio Veneto, it offers panoramic views of the entire Sassi
- Belvedere Emilio Colombo Statista and Convento Sant’ Agostino
- Piazza Madonna de Idris – A beautiful staircase leads up to this piazza, where you will find this viewpoint.
- Belvedere di Murgia Timone – This one is located outside the city and is a little further to get to. You can either hike or get here via car. Hike takes around 40 minutes and includes crossing a suspension bridge. Car is of course, easier option. But even after you park, there is a 1.5-kilometer flat walk to get to the viewpoint. Sadly, we did not have the time to visit this one.
Zipa Café is a cool place to grab a drink. It does get busy so get here before sunset hour. Terazza Cavaliere provides an AMAZING view of the city and it is the perfect spot to grab a drink during sunset hour. Sadly, it was totally booked when we visited ☹️
You can even go for an aperitivo to the terrace of the hotel “Sextantio”. We were near Piazza Pascoli, which is the other end of town, and wanted to check out the sunset from here, so chose to skip it.
Did you know you can even take a hot air balloon flight over Matera? We spotted a few hot air balloons early in the morning as we were driving out of the city.
Other Towns / Places to Visit
If you are in Puglia for longer, then certainly check out the below:
- Lecce
- Otranto
- Gallipolli
- Grotta della Poesia
- Faraglioni di Sant’Andrea
- Pescoluse Beach aka Maldives of Salento because of its white sand and clear blue waters.
*Prices are as of September 2024